Hello from Mt Zion Hotel, Jerusalem,

It is hard to believe this is the site of the world's most contentious conflict over land, water and faith. The back of the hotel slopes downward towards the Kidron Valley. The table I write this from looks out over the valley toward the Temple Mount on my left and the Mount of Olives straight ahead, the tower of the Church of the Ascension visible in the night sky. In the comfort of this gorgeous hotel, I realize I am in a situation in which too few people in this region could participate; I am very aware of privilege.

Today we began by traveling to Mount Scopus. We traveled up the road that formed the 1967 borders. Though President Obama's remarks last week were sadly mischaracterized - he simply re-iterated the position of the last 5 US administrations - his very reference to those borders framed much of our tour guide's commentary this morning. One thing seems clear - those old borders, which zigzagged through streets around the Old City, seem not only indefensible but must have made life horrible for everyone. To go from one side of the city to the other one had to cross one or two international boundaries and the security checkpoints that accompany such borders. They also meant that two nations at odds with one another (and the UN) were armed and aimed at one another in close quarters in a small city. It seems a more civil way to live to have one authority in charge, so long as that authority honors minority rights; and of course this means there are perceived winners and losers.

On Mount Scopus we had a grand view of most of the city, and from there we took a driving tour around many of the main sights to get the lay of the land. We then arrived at the "Tomb of King David," a place which also claims to house the room of the Last Supper. These structures are given these claims by tradition; Jerusalem was completely leveled after the uprising in 70 CE; the Romans even poured salt over the rubble to help it disintegrate faster. The Crusaders were the ones who built this structure on the site of one of Herod's many palaces. Our tour guide failed to mention how the Crusaders slaughtered tens of thousands; Jews, Christians, pagans on the way to Palestine, and every single Muslim man, woman and child they found in and around Jerusalem upon arrival.

Despite its dubious authenticity, the tradition seems stronger than any archaeological finding. Sephardic and Hasidic Jews were praying at David's Tomb, and nearly a hundred Christians were gathered in the Last Supper room singing hymns. Their sacred intention softened some of my disappointment with our tour guide. The fact that they focused on beauty and praise was a needed balm.

Then we went off to the Western Wall. The Western or "Wailing" Wall is at the bottom of the retaining wall built by Herod (3 CE) around the site of the Second Temple (516 BCE). Atop this wall is the Dome of the Rock and the Al Aqsa Mosque, two of Islam's most holy sites, in what is known as the Temple Mount. The Dome of the Rock is the glorious gold dome that was built around 690 CE by the Muslim Umayyad caliph Malik. It houses Mt Moriah, which is the rock upon which Muslims believe Abraham offered to sacrifice Ishmael (Jews and Christians claim Isaac was the one at risk). It is also where Muhammad is believed to have ascended into heaven. As of today it is very difficult for non-Muslims to gain access to the Temple Mount, but Anya and I are trying to find a guide to take us. There has been a recent spate of deliberate acts of sacrilege (to Muslims), so the Muslims have limited access. Having such a disputed, beloved site sacred to so many faiths whose political entities are at odds continues to make it difficult for pilgrims and normal citizens alike to peacefully coexist. It is a sign of Israeli largesse that they allow the Muslims to control this site though it is within the zone of Israeli political control.

Our tour guide disappointed me once again at the Western Wall. He made some gross generalizations about Muslims, and after offering a fair rendering of the source of the difference between Shiite and Sunni Muslims, he stated that "they will never be reconciled and their followers will never permit democracy." I am not sure where he bought his crystal ball, but this is simply conjecture at best. Consider the history of race relations in the US, where so many said the races would never be able to live together in peace, or better yet the history of brutal violence among northern Europeans - Vikings, Angles and Saxons. These were people who reveled in slaughter for slaughter's sake, who gave honor as a reward for viciousness and cruelty. Yet today those nations - Sweden, England, Ireland, France, etc - are some of the world's most successful and humane democracies. Our tour guide was showing his colors and his prejudice, and I worried about the fellow Americans on this tour with me who may not know as much about this history. Are they being critical?

We went right from this 'history lecture' to the Western Wall. The wall is segregated by gender. I had to put on a yarmulke. I noticed a sign that asked for people to show reverence, since for Jews the Wall is the place "whereupon the divine presence always rests." I walked slowly to the wall, breathing deeply and slowly as I stepped. The sounds of Jews of many sects prayed all around us - the Hasidim bobbing, the Sephardics swaying. I resolved to stay and pray as deeply as I could, to transform my dissatisfaction into sacred intent. I placed both hands on the wall and composed a long prayer of patience, then a petitional prayer asking for relief for the suffering this site sadly too often symbolizes and incites. I even kissed the wall - which surprised me almost as much as did my father-in-law! And then I fell to my knees and prayed again.

Then I walked slowly up the ramp, and I noticed how many different people were there - people of all ethnicities and religions, and a warmer feeling washed over me. From here we walked down the Via Dolorosa past some of the stations of the Cross through the crowded markets of the old city towards the Church of the Holy Sepulchre. If you do not know about this church, it is shared by 6 different Christian denominations - Catholic, Ethiopian, Coptic, Greek, Syrian and Armenian Christian churches. The sharing has largely worked in recent times. It is confoundingly difficult to remember all the sites this one church claims to house, but I'll list some.

The church sits atop what used to be an old quarry; this was the highest spot near the Old City, near the most popular gate. Jesus is believed to have been crucified on the top of this limestone hill; there is a 'hole' in the rock into which the cross was alleged to have been placed. From here, all people entering and exiting the city would see the crucified as a potent reminder of the cost of defying Rome. This massive Church also houses the 'Rock of Unction," where it is believed Jesus was prepared for burial, and two tombs of Jesus. The most famous place for Jesus' tomb is the Aedicule, controlled by the Catholics, Greeks and Armenians. Yet today some believe that a more likely burial site is around the corner, in a place that looks like a traditional burial cave in Palestine of the era, and this is controlled by the Syrians. Are you confused yet. We did not see even one half of everything and we wee here for an hour. The place is so crowded and full of an air of contention and ownership; it was a far cry from the reverence I felt at the Wailing Wall.

Of course, tradition trumps science and reason in this city. An old bedouin saying goes "It is wiser to question the traveller than the path." This is a nod to the pull of tradition, especially potent in this part of the world. Yet our Unitarian Universalist faith begs us to put all claims to the test of reason, faith, experience and reflection, and I am so glad that I my faith the grounds me in the confidence that I must employ all my gifts when examining the world, even - and, perhaps, especially - when people are asking me to make decisions, donate money or pledge allegiance because of a tradition, a text, or a claim of truth and authenticity. Our faith saves lives in part by defending us against error.

How I wish all these folks who feel the burden of thousands of years of history and tradition could use it as clay to mold a new today and better tomorrow based on love, tolerance, faith and trust. I wish they could feel the real blessing of diversity, knowing the different is not deficient. I wish they could know that we need not think alike to love alike. Yes, this was, in part, my prayer at the wall today. I am a hopeful man, but I am a modest one too. I know many more must have a similar dream and pray a similar prayer for us to find a way of peace in this troubled holy land.

In Faith,
Rev Scott